Any backyard or professional mechanics?
This topic was created in the The Man Cave forum by Hemispheres on Thursday, May 26, 2016 and has 35 replies.
I recently developed an exhaust leak after reusing the exhaust mani gasket. I went to retorque and apparently I mixed up two of the mani studs. Despite them being the same pitch one is slighty crossthreaded or has warped/damaged threads. It will hold torque but only after turning 1/16th - q1/32nd of a revolution and deffo feels like its cutting into the aluminum threads.
I'm ordering new bolts and planning on chasing the threads, but I'm confused as to whether I should use a bottoming/plug tap or a tapered tap.
I'm ordering new bolts and planning on chasing the threads, but I'm confused as to whether I should use a bottoming/plug tap or a tapered tap.
Looks like Ill be using a tapered tap.... It doesnt look to be advisable to use a bottoming tap to chase threads.
It should hold with no issue, If damaged aluminum is holding 25 lb ft of torque its minimal damage.
Just hoping threads dont come out with the bolt.
It should hold with no issue, If damaged aluminum is holding 25 lb ft of torque its minimal damage.
Just hoping threads dont come out with the bolt.
Thanks cross.
bottoming or plug should be fine if you are just cleaning up threads, tapered is mostly for starting. but if it's a through hole you can run it down deep enough to clean up the entire length of thread.
did you take the studs out of the block or something? maybe you got them in backwards ie. the end that was sticking out, vs the end that was originally in the engine.
you can get a tool at sears to rethread the studs, as long as it's between like 1/4" and 1/2" or something. the jaws are floating so it should pretty much handle any pitch including metric.
as for the hole, you'd probably have to get a special tap.
sorry, i would have replied sooner if i saw it
did you take the studs out of the block or something? maybe you got them in backwards ie. the end that was sticking out, vs the end that was originally in the engine.
you can get a tool at sears to rethread the studs, as long as it's between like 1/4" and 1/2" or something. the jaws are floating so it should pretty much handle any pitch including metric.
as for the hole, you'd probably have to get a special tap.
sorry, i would have replied sooner if i saw it
if it's not a through hole, and all you have is a tapered tap, you can grind it down if you are careful not to overheat it or else you'll fuck up the temper. it can get brittle and break down in the hole.
either that or it will just get dull and become a pain in the ass to use. or even break due to the dullness.
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-cm-universal-external-thread-repair-tool/p-00938948000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1
p/n looks like : 938948
5/32"-1/2"
the stop is just a screw with peened threads to keep it from unthreading completely, so i filed the threads with a 60deg file so that they are completely clean to allow it to go up to 5/8"
p/n looks like : 938948
5/32"-1/2"
the stop is just a screw with peened threads to keep it from unthreading completely, so i filed the threads with a 60deg file so that they are completely clean to allow it to go up to 5/8"
honestly... i just thought about it... if you're not comfortable with taps, you should probably use the tapered/starter tap first.
if the top of the thread is fucked up, the bottoming tap might not catch right easily
if the top of the thread is fucked up, the bottoming tap might not catch right easily
you knuckleheads don't know what the fuck you're talking about.
you need to chuck that block up in a giant ass lathe and chase it like a real man.
you need to chuck that block up in a giant ass lathe and chase it like a real man.
Posted by idgaf
you knuckleheads don't know what the fuck you're talking about.
you need to chuck that block up in a giant ass lathe and chase it like a real man.
dumbass.
Its the head. I'm not pulling it unless absolutely necessary. I've got everything I need except for the exhaust mani gasket. I called an engine shop and the owner recommended WD40 for the initi pass with the tapered tap, followed by a 3:1 mix id kerosene and trans fluid with the bottoming tap.
I'm holding off until I get both exhaust mani gaskets and new plugs/wires. She's coming up on 100k and is due for a tuneup anyways. It'll be easier with the manifolds off.
I'm holding off until I get both exhaust mani gaskets and new plugs/wires. She's coming up on 100k and is due for a tuneup anyways. It'll be easier with the manifolds off.
yep yep... wd-40, is there anything it can't do?
if you wanna get fancy, you could use some of this:
smells like cinamon, and the shit's like gold... i can never find it when i need it.
smells like cinamon, and the shit's like gold... i can never find it when i need it.
wd-40 is probably better than standard oil, i think the heavy viscosity of regular oil can inadequately prevent galling sometimes and then you might have an instant "oopsie" face. anything slippery is better than nothing if you are tapping a hole from scratch though... cleaning up threads dry isn't impossible, maybe a bit frowned upon. i'd say it depends on how screwed up the threads are
can't comment on kerosene, never used it for that purpose.
how'd you get the studs out, if you don't mind me asking?
if you did put them in the same end into the block, or were able to get something like this to work:
there may have just been some dirt in there...
either way it doesn't sound too serious, just a pain in the ass.
exhaust work sucks, but it looks like you've got the hard part done. good luck anyway man
if you wanna get fancy, you could use some of this:
smells like cinamon, and the shit's like gold... i can never find it when i need it.
smells like cinamon, and the shit's like gold... i can never find it when i need it.
wd-40 is probably better than standard oil, i think the heavy viscosity of regular oil can inadequately prevent galling sometimes and then you might have an instant "oopsie" face. anything slippery is better than nothing if you are tapping a hole from scratch though... cleaning up threads dry isn't impossible, maybe a bit frowned upon. i'd say it depends on how screwed up the threads are
can't comment on kerosene, never used it for that purpose.
how'd you get the studs out, if you don't mind me asking?
if you did put them in the same end into the block, or were able to get something like this to work:
there may have just been some dirt in there...
either way it doesn't sound too serious, just a pain in the ass.
exhaust work sucks, but it looks like you've got the hard part done. good luck anyway man
fyi, i'm not exactly a wrench-turner, more like a last resort
even if something does get jacked up, there are options.....
even if something does get jacked up, there are options.....
I haven't taken it apart again yet. Those are new studs, not the old ones.
The reason he recommends WD40 is its a mineral oil much like kerosene, it helps cut cleaner and leaves a like-factory finish on the aluminum. The transfluid will help trap the aluminum shavings.
Helicoil is a last resort before pulling the head. I should be fine, the threads are very fine so if a few rows are a little galled I've still got plenty for the new studs to bite into.
5/16x18 is the size and thread pitch.
The reason he recommends WD40 is its a mineral oil much like kerosene, it helps cut cleaner and leaves a like-factory finish on the aluminum. The transfluid will help trap the aluminum shavings.
Helicoil is a last resort before pulling the head. I should be fine, the threads are very fine so if a few rows are a little galled I've still got plenty for the new studs to bite into.
5/16x18 is the size and thread pitch.
well like i said, if you can't get your hands on some tap magic....
from what i know... usually when tapping, it's advisable to rotate one complete turn, reverse 1/4 turn (if you are using a four-flute tap) and periodically remove the tap completely to clean the flutes. but that's typically a clean hole/from scratch situation.
i've broken a 3/8-16 tap about an inch down into a hole on the way out because the flutes became clogged........ cleaned it as i thought was appropriate, but apparently wasn't enough.
spent the following 3 hours beating the heck out of it with a handful of sharp ass punches and a rather large hammer. fun times.
can't always rely on that though, i also ruined a part trying to beat out a tap a co-worker broke.
i think tapping just requires some tactility.... once you've broken a couple, you kinda get a feel for when to back off.
sounds like it shouldn't be too bad, at least it's not a through hole into the engine
from what i know... usually when tapping, it's advisable to rotate one complete turn, reverse 1/4 turn (if you are using a four-flute tap) and periodically remove the tap completely to clean the flutes. but that's typically a clean hole/from scratch situation.
i've broken a 3/8-16 tap about an inch down into a hole on the way out because the flutes became clogged........ cleaned it as i thought was appropriate, but apparently wasn't enough.
spent the following 3 hours beating the heck out of it with a handful of sharp ass punches and a rather large hammer. fun times.
can't always rely on that though, i also ruined a part trying to beat out a tap a co-worker broke.
i think tapping just requires some tactility.... once you've broken a couple, you kinda get a feel for when to back off.
sounds like it shouldn't be too bad, at least it's not a through hole into the engine
Lmfao.
oh sthu
is it more broken
Nope I'm ordering the year rest of the parts today. God I love RockAuto 
2 New rear rotors
Hybrid Platinum/Iridium Spark Plugs x6
Denso 7mm spark plug wire set
Felpro exhaust mani gaskets
$ 116 shipped
ZZPerformance.com:
2 gallons Dexron 6 AT fluid
New trans filter
$ 75 shipped.
Next week gonna be dirty
2 New rear rotors
Hybrid Platinum/Iridium Spark Plugs x6
Denso 7mm spark plug wire set
Felpro exhaust mani gaskets
$ 116 shipped
ZZPerformance.com:
2 gallons Dexron 6 AT fluid
New trans filter
$ 75 shipped.
Next week gonna be dirty
are you sure your tranny is an 8 quart capacity
working on a complex piece of machinery without consulting a manual???
madness.
madness.
Posted by iguessthatslife
working on a complex piece of machinery without consulting a manual???
madness.
which manual? haynes or fsm?
depends on the car. the bentley i had for one of my cars pretty much showed you how to make one from scratch, every drawing, schematic, you name it. they don't seem to have one available for my current car. i don't have a manual currently, so i guess i have my research cut out for me.
Posted by iguessthatslife
depends on the car. the bentley i had for one of my cars pretty much showed you how to make one from scratch, every drawing, schematic, you name it. they don't seem to have one available for my current car. i don't have a manual currently, so i guess i have my research cut out for me.
sounds like the factory service manual. haynes would say you might have lug nuts holding on the wheels
did you get yourself banned
Posted by idgaf2
holy shit. fucking dxp cracking down
but you're still around
Posted by idgaf2
yep....
anyway i've only owned that bentley manual, but it's helped me on different models of the same manufacturer. i don't think it's an actual factory manual, but it's probably a supplemental in some shops.
you probably should of had one of these you fool
dance on your ban grave
A bit late to the party, but judging from your pictures I would say those studs are off a GM car or a Ford. What do you own a GM 3.1 3.4 or 3.8? Maybe a Ford 4.6 or similar modular engine? Anyway, many times the nuts (locking nuts) oxidize on the stud, and the torque to remove them is so great, that you end up screwing the stud out of the head with nut still attached to it. When that happens I almost always just replace it with a new stud and nut. They are sold in a packet of about 8 at many auto parts retail chains. Costs about 12 bucks for the packet. Your biggest issue comes at installation time. Even though the entire stud came out of the head, there is a good chance the nut turned a bit on the stud during the initial removal process. When you go to reinstall said stud, it will screw all the way in and bottom out, but the nut will not be flush to the manifold (as it backed out some on the initial removal) and properly tighten it. This is where you either strip the threads or break the stud off, because the nut is seized regardless of it slightly backing out.
You were fortunate you didn't break a stud as this means drilling in a confined space which may not be possible with the head in the vehicle. As far as tapping goes, any tap is fine. Use WD40 or similar, and if you are worried about going in too far, simply stick a thin screwdriver or pick in the hole, and mark off how deep it went in. Then just use some electrical tape or paint, w/e and mark the same depth on your tap, and use it as a guide to stop once you go the correct distance.
You were fortunate you didn't break a stud as this means drilling in a confined space which may not be possible with the head in the vehicle. As far as tapping goes, any tap is fine. Use WD40 or similar, and if you are worried about going in too far, simply stick a thin screwdriver or pick in the hole, and mark off how deep it went in. Then just use some electrical tape or paint, w/e and mark the same depth on your tap, and use it as a guide to stop once you go the correct distance.
Posted by idgaf2Posted by HouseCleaning
you probably should of had one of these you fool
i know, right....
my luck is bound to run out eventuallyclick to expand
Posted by idgaf2Posted by HouseCleaningPosted by idgaf2Posted by HouseCleaning
you probably should of had one of these you fool
i know, right....
my luck is bound to run out eventually
\why are you always fucking confused???
do you need some fucking omega 3- fatty acids??????
Or maybe some fucking sleep??click to expand
Posted by idgaf2how many accounts do you have floating aroundPosted by HouseCleaningthat's some deep shit broPosted by idgaf2Posted by HouseCleaningPosted by idgaf2Posted by HouseCleaning
you probably should of had one of these you fool
i know, right....
my luck is bound to run out eventually
\why are you always fucking confused???
do you need some fucking omega 3- fatty acids??????
Or maybe some fucking sleep??click to expand
Posted by idgaf2multiple user account disorder?Posted by HouseCleaningPosted by idgaf2how many accounts do you have floating aroundPosted by HouseCleaningthat's some deep shit broPosted by idgaf2Posted by HouseCleaningPosted by idgaf2Posted by HouseCleaning
you probably should of had one of these you fool
i know, right....
my luck is bound to run out eventually
\why are you always fucking confused???
do you need some fucking omega 3- fatty acids??????
Or maybe some fucking sleep??
i don't know man.
i can't take thit shit anymore.
did i really make those last two posts???
god i hope i'm not developing mpdclick to expand
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